Key Moments

#13 – Brett Kotlus, M.D.: How to look younger while we live longer

Peter Attia MDPeter Attia MD
People & Blogs3 min read109 min video
Dec 23, 2019|16,850 views|298|21
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TL;DR

Dr. Brett Kotlus on practical strategies for graceful aging, skincare, and cosmetic procedures.

Key Insights

1

Aging involves intrinsic (genetics) and extrinsic (sun, movement) factors affecting skin, fat, bone, and ligaments.

2

Sun exposure significantly damages skin by degrading collagen and elastin, leading to premature aging.

3

Subtle, consistent cosmetic interventions are key to achieving natural-looking results over time.

4

Choosing the right provider involves thorough research, looking at credentials, referrals, and having a good rapport.

5

Sunscreen (broad-spectrum SPF 30+), retinoids, and topical Vitamin C are foundational for skin maintenance.

6

Technological advancements like 3D printing are poised to revolutionize reconstructive and cosmetic surgery.

THE MECHANICS OF FACIAL AGING

Facial aging is a complex process influenced by both intrinsic genetic factors and extrinsic environmental factors. Intrinsic aging leads to natural changes like bone and fat loss, and thinning skin. Extrinsic factors, primarily long-term sun exposure (solar elastosis), degrade collagen and elastin, reduce skin thickness, and cause issues like brown spots and visible blood vessels. Gravity and repetitive facial movements also play a role, stressing ligaments and contributing to sagging.

THE IMPACT OF SUN EXPOSURE AND OTHER FACTORS

Sun exposure is a major contributor to premature skin aging, causing damage that far exceeds simple sunburns. UV radiation can lead to fat atrophy over time, similar to how heat and lasers affect fat cells. While facial skin is more prone to visible aging due to movement and a higher density of oil glands, years of unprotected sun exposure can impact all exposed areas. Tension in the skin, observed on areas like the back, also influences how aging manifests differently across the body.

ACHIEVING NATURAL-LOOKING COSMETIC ENHANCEMENTS

The goal of cosmetic procedures should be subtle, natural-looking improvements that enhance, rather than alter, one's appearance. Overdone procedures often result in an unnatural, distorted look. Key to avoiding this is understanding facial anatomy and proportions, and aiming for results that appear as if no work was done. Providers should focus on restoring volume and enhancing natural features without exaggerating them, respecting the limits of skin elasticity and natural contours.

FOUNDATIONAL SKINCARE REGIMEN FOR LONGEVITY

A robust daily skincare routine is crucial for anti-aging. This includes daily broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) to combat UV damage, nighttime application of retinoids (prescription-strength or over-the-counter retinol) to promote collagen synthesis and cell turnover, and morning application of topical Vitamin C. Vitamin C acts as a potent antioxidant, protecting against free radicals and supporting collagen production. These basics form the cornerstone of effective long-term skin health and rejuvenation.

NAVIGATING COSMETIC PROCEDURES AND FINDING THE RIGHT PROVIDER

When considering cosmetic procedures, choosing a qualified provider is paramount. Research credentials, seek referrals, and interview multiple practitioners to ensure a good rapport and shared aesthetic goals. Patients should feel comfortable asking about a provider's experience, complication rates, and their approach to different skin types. While many procedures like lasers and peels can be effective, their success heavily depends on the provider's skill and judgment in selecting appropriate candidates and customizing treatments.

EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES AND THE FUTURE OF FACIAL REJUVENATION

The field of aesthetic medicine is rapidly evolving with technologies like advanced lasers, energy devices, platelet-rich plasma (PRP), and 3D bioprinting. While some technologies show promise, evidence for their efficacy can be mixed, and providers must be discerning. Future advancements point towards highly personalized treatments based on genetic screening and the creation of custom implants and even organs through 3D printing. The focus is shifting towards understanding the underlying biological mechanisms and delivering treatments with precision and safety.

Essential Skincare for Anti-Aging & Rejuvenation

Practical takeaways from this episode

Do This

Apply broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every morning, especially on face, neck, and hands.
Reapply sunscreen every two hours, or more frequently if sweating or swimming.
Use over-the-counter retinol products at night, starting every second or third day, then increasing frequency as tolerated.
Apply topical Vitamin C serum in the morning after cleansing, waiting for it to dry before applying sunscreen.
Wear a wide-brimmed hat to protect facial skin from sun exposure.
Research and choose a qualified provider for cosmetic procedures by checking certifications, asking for referrals, and interviewing multiple doctors/injectors.
Maintain a balanced perspective on cosmetic procedures, focusing on natural results and personal confidence rather than extreme changes.

Avoid This

Avoid chemical sunscreens containing octinoxate due to potential hormonal disruptive effects, especially for children.
Do not over-inject Botox in the frontalis muscle (forehead) which can lead to a 'frozen' or 'Spock brow' look; aim for light application to weaken muscle contraction instead.
Do not try to achieve an appearance that is unnaturally younger (e.g., 30 years younger) as this often leads to a distorted look.
Avoid providers who only offer treatments they have, rather than referring out for procedures they don't specialize in or for which they are not the best fit.
Do not solely rely on energy-based skin tightening devices, as many (e.g., Thermage, Ultherapy) are often 'underwhelming' in their effectiveness.
Be skeptical of 'cure-all' treatments like PRP that claim to address a wide range of issues without strong scientific backing, especially given their cost.

Common Questions

Facial skin experiences more movement and has more areas of laxity, unlike the tauter skin on the back. It also has a higher density of sebaceous glands and is affected more by muscular expression and gravity over time. Additionally, direct sun exposure on the face contributes significantly to aging signs.

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