Chris Arnade on Walking Cities
Conversations with TylerKey Moments
Chris Arnade discusses his method of learning cities through walking, comparing Beijing and Shanghai, and the nature of societal control.
Key Insights
Walking is a primary method for Arnade to understand cities at a granular level, revealing textures and insights missed by conventional travel.
Beijing's status is tied to power and control, influencing its top-down urban design, while Shanghai's status is linked to money and consumption.
Chinese cities are increasingly designed for control, often intentionally limiting organic street life and replacing it with curated experiences.
McDonald's serves as a 'third space' in China, offering a place for respite and unofficial social interaction, similar to its role in the US but for different reasons.
Arnade's travels have led him to revise his views on humanity, embracing a less relativistic perspective and acknowledging the significant role of elites in shaping culture.
The Substack model allows creators like Arnade to build a livelihood by connecting with a dedicated audience, emphasizing the power of niche communities.
WALKING AS A METHOD OF DISCOVERY
Chris Arnade's approach to understanding cities fundamentally involves walking extensively, often covering 15-20 miles a day. This method allows him to engage with the urban environment at a granular level, absorbing details and nuances that are often missed by tourists or through conventional observation. He contrasts this with his previous life in finance, where understanding was top-down and data-driven. For Arnade, walking is not just about movement; it's a deliberate practice of slow sociology, enabling him to uncover the lived realities of a city and its inhabitants, forming the basis of his written work.
CONFRONTING THE CONSTRAINTS OF URBAN DESIGN
Arnade's walking project highlights how urban design, particularly in cities like Beijing and Shanghai, can impede his preferred method of exploration. He notes that these cities are not always inherently walkable, sometimes feeling uniform and repetitive, which he likens to a cheap cartoon with repeating backgrounds. This design, he suggests, is often intentional, aimed at control and regulation, as theorized by James C. Scott. The removal of small, winding neighborhoods in favor of large towers and malls, coupled with surveillance, aims to create a more manageable and controlled environment.
BEIJING VS. SHANGHAI: POWER, MONEY, AND CONTROL
Distinguishing between Beijing and Shanghai, Arnade posits that status in Shanghai is primarily defined by money and conspicuous consumption, with a stronger tie to the outside world. In contrast, status in Beijing is more closely aligned with power, imbuing the city with a more intellectual feel and greater connections to the broader Chinese interior. Despite these differences, he found both cities to be somewhat inscrutable at the granular level he typically explores, feeling a pervasive sense of top-down regulation designed for control, which he experienced even when trying to visit Tiananmen Square.
THE ROLE OF 'FUNCTIONAL DYSFUNCTION' AND THIRD SPACES
Arnade observes that certain urban spaces, like McDonald's in China, fulfill the role of 'third spaces'—places for community and respite—though often due to 'functional dysfunction.' In China, McDonald's offers a place to relax and be, contrasting with its US role as a purely functional option dependent on its immediate neighborhood. He contrasts this with KFC, which he largely avoids due to a dislike for fried foods. This phenomenon extends globally, with places like McDonald's in Auckland, New Zealand serving as hubs for specific communities, highlighting how global brands adapt to local social needs.
REVISING VIEWS ON HUMANITY AND CULTURE
Through his extensive travels, Arnade has experienced a significant shift in his worldview, particularly moving away from cultural relativism towards the belief that some cultures are objectively better than others. This journey has also led him to a form of religiosity, understanding that life and human behavior are more complex than purely scientific explanations might suggest, embracing 'common sense folk wisdom.' He now believes that elites, including governments and cultural leaders, play a crucial role in shaping societies and cultures, a perspective he applies even to the CCP's methods in China.
THE CHALLENGES AND REWARDS OF A WALKING LIFESTYLE
Arnade finds the act of walking and traveling to be therapeutic and essential, though he acknowledges the need to balance this immersive learning with more traditional forms of study, like reading books. He advocates for under-packing, as most travelers bring more than they need. The Substack model has enabled him to monetize his unique niche, allowing him to continue his work by connecting with a dedicated audience. He emphasizes that while his lifestyle is logistically challenging and requires a specific personality, it offers a deeply fulfilling way to understand the world.
NAVIGATING CITIES AND PERCEPTIONS OF WALKABILITY
Arnade's personal metric for walkability incorporates climate, crime, and pollution, acknowledging that factors like Los Angeles's good weather and public transport enhance its walkability despite distances. He identifies cities like Phoenix, Dar es Salaam, and Rio de Janeiro as particularly challenging for walking due to heat, safety concerns, lack of infrastructure, or geographical barriers. Conversely, he praises cities like Amman, Alexandria, and Istanbul for their walkability, noting the importance of local distribution networks and the integration of history into the urban fabric.
THE UNEXPECTED VALUE OF GRAND DUPLICITOUS CONTROL
In places like China, Arnade observes a phenomenon he terms 'totalitarian anarchy,' where the state intends complete control but often falls short due to perceived incompetence or deliberate leniency. He suggests that granting partial freedoms, like the use of VPNs (which are themselves monitored), allows for better control by managing the populace's perception of freedom. This nuanced approach, he posits, is a strategy to maintain stability and achieve nationalistic goals, even if it leads to unexpected outcomes such as the fertility crisis, which appears to be managed through improvisation rather than rigid planning.
Mentioned in This Episode
●Supplements
●Products
●Software & Apps
●Organizations
●Books
●Concepts
●People Referenced
Tips for Smart Travel and World Exploration
Practical takeaways from this episode
Do This
Avoid This
Common Questions
In Shanghai, status is primarily defined by money and conspicuous consumption, while in Beijing, status is linked to power. Shanghai is more globally connected, whereas Beijing feels more intellectual and tied to broader China.
Topics
Mentioned in this video
Considered a bad city for walkability, and Chris Arnade's attempt to prove it walkable failed.
A place Chris Arnade visited where he had to spend more time reading due to a mistimed monsoon.
Mentioned as a place people might go to commit crimes, thus contributing to El Paso's low crime rate.
Considered the least walkable city due to danger, impassable topography (mountains, tunnels), and 'no-go zones.'
Chris Arnade walked all over Lima, Peru, despite being told not to, and found it to be safe and have some of the best food in the world.
Considered more interesting than the tourist parts of the European side.
Recommended for visiting ancient sites, feeling Nordic, and accessible by boat.
Praised for its optimism, the alive American dream in the working-class Mexican-American community, low crime rate, and great food.
A park in Shanghai near where Chris Arnade stayed, contributing to his positive initial experience of the city.
Chris Arnade considers Tide Pods his secret weapon for travel laundry.
While not explicitly mentioned, the context of 'Vietnamese food' and 'developing world' suggests a possible confusion, but the general discussion is about food quality comparison in Southeast Asia. The transcript does not contain 'Laos'.
Highly recommended for its sublime beauty, functionality, good seafood, and opportunities for island hopping and walking.
A dish Chris Arnade tried in Japan and found to be not good, even for the risk involved.
A favorite walkable city, described as relatively undiscovered and safe, but challenging due to its eight hills.
The subject of a previous episode, who is walking around the world.
Chris Arnade has two snapping turtles in his pond, Reginald and No Name, which he feeds and finds fascinating.
A hobby that fascinated Chris Arnade and led him to document pigeon keepers, which in turn led to his addiction project.
Chris Arnade's well-known book about lower-income America and Trump voters.
Ranked very low for walkability, with challenges including heat, safety concerns due to potential miscommunication, and lack of walking infrastructure.
Mentioned in the context of the 'aura' of artworks and the age of mechanical reproduction.
Location of what Chris Arnade considers the world's largest Polynesian McDonald's, serving as a center for Polynesian gatherings.
Credited with the concept that one only needs 2,000 fans to build a life, aligning with the Substack model.
Mentioned as one of Chris Arnade's favorite cities for walking.
Chris Arnade walked across it, finding it tough and acknowledging it was likely insane in retrospect.
Considered one of the most walkable cities, with good weather, beauty, diversity, and strong local distribution, though motor scooters are a minor issue.
A massive city that Chris Arnade wanted to see and explore by walking, as it represents a normal experience for most people.
Experienced significant pothole issues, making walking difficult, and locals questioned why one would walk instead of using a moped.
Mentioned as an alternative to McDonald's in China, but not preferred by Chris Arnade due to his dislike of fried foods.
A 13th-century wall in Istanbul used as a car park, illustrating how history is integrated rather than just museum-like.
Discussed as a potential place to live for 10 years, chosen over Shanghai for its perceived greater depth and intellectual atmosphere.
One of Chris Arnade's favorite walkable cities, offering a waterfront, interesting buildings, and was considered quite safe.
Referenced as an analogy for the CCP's self-perception as a guardian class aiming to build the best society.
The best sight to see in Xian, located in a museum.
Recommended as a city in China that still has organic street life.
Considered the most walkable part of India, well-maintained by the Sikh community, though facing pollution, weather, and pothole issues.
Chris Arnade is considering booking a trip to Belarus but acknowledges the reasons and risks are complicated.
The name of Chris Arnade's Substack newsletter.
Compared to Beijing, with a better initial experience due to location but ultimately found to be less intellectually stimulating.
Specific example used to illustrate asking AI for travel recommendations based on interests.
Chris Arnade was surprised by how much he liked Cape Town, finding walkable squares, perfect weather, amazing food, and lower prices.
Chris Arnade brings his Kindle when traveling but prefers reading physical books.
Praised for its functional dysfunction, safety, efficiency, amazing food scene, and a beloved 10-mile walk along a reclaimed drainage ditch.
More from Conversations with Tyler
View all 37 summaries
3 minOverrated or underrated? Henry Oliver on Milton, Tolkien, & Harry Potter. | Conversations with Tyler
62 minHenry Oliver on Measure for Measure, Late Bloomers, and the Smartest Writers in English
1 minNext Week: Measure for Measure with Henry Oliver | Conversations with Tyler
2 minDoes Africa have a manufacturing future? Joe Studwell makes the case. | Conversations with Tyler
Found this useful? Build your knowledge library
Get AI-powered summaries of any YouTube video, podcast, or article in seconds. Save them to your personal pods and access them anytime.
Try Summify free