What is the difference between tow-in surfing and paddle surfing?

Tow-in surfing involves being towed into large waves by a jet ski, allowing surfers to ride smaller, more maneuverable boards at high speeds. Paddle surfing relies on traditional paddling to catch waves, which is more challenging on extremely fast and large waves but is considered 'purer' by some traditionalists.

What is the wave Teahupo'o famous for, and what does its name mean?

Teahupo'o, located in Tahiti, is famous for being one of the heaviest and most perfectly barreling waves in the world. It breaks in shallow water, displacing the entire ocean forward without a traditional 'back' to the wave, resembling a rideable tsunami. Its name translates to 'broken skulls,' reflecting the dangers of its shallow, razor-sharp reef.

How does big wave surfing relate to managing fear and personal growth?

Kai Lenny describes big wave surfing as a mirror, revealing one's true self in moments of facing death. He emphasizes not eliminating fear but being 'in line with it,' as fear prompts caution. The experience is a constant process of overcoming challenges, leading to feelings of purity and profound aliveness after a successful ride.

How does the hydrofoil technology change surfing?

The hydrofoil, an underwater wing attached to a board, allows surfers to rise above the water's surface, creating an illusion of flight. Kai Lenny innovated its use for riding small, otherwise unsurfable waves and for long-distance channel crossings, making it feel like snowboarding downhill on ocean swells.

What is the role of technology and innovation in Kai Lenny's surfing?

Kai Lenny embraces technology, viewing tools like hydrofoils, advanced boards, and safety vests (like the CO2 inflation vest) as ways to have 'more fun' and push the limits of what's possible. He sees these innovations as essential for expanding the sport's capabilities beyond mere survival.

How do big wave surfers predict waves?

Big wave surfers become skilled meteorologists, using information from NOAA, buoys, and satellites to predict when a specific wave will break. They analyze tide, swell direction, and winds to precisely time their sessions, often traveling across the world days before a predicted swell.

What is Nazare's unique bathymetry and why does it produce such big waves?

Nazare is unique due to Europe's largest underwater trench, an ancient glacier-carved valley. This trench focuses raw Atlantic swell energy onto shallow water, combining with local swells to create a 'rogue wave' effect (superposition), doubling wave height consistently to produce the world's tallest waves.

What is the current state of women's big wave surfing?

Women's big wave surfing is experiencing a massive shift, with major strides in progression. Pioneers like Keala Kennelly, Paige Alms, Bianca Valenti, and Maya Gabeira are inspiring a new generation of girls to enter the sport and push the limits, ensuring the sport's continued relevance and evolution.

How do surfers interact with sharks in their environment?

Kai Lenny believes in respecting sharks as 'landlords' of their domain. He suggests projecting confidence and understanding their behavior. While some sharks, like tiger sharks, are seen as 'garbagemen' of the sea, other situations, like the bull shark problem at Reunion Island, highlight complex human-wildlife relationships.

Key Moments

Kai Lenny on The Portal (with host Eric Weinstein), Ep. #024 - To Play and Flirt with Giants

The Portal

Entertainment4 min read113 min video

Mar 16, 2020|69,398 views|1,326|227

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Key Moments

TL;DR

Kai Lenny discusses big wave surfing, technological advancements, and pushing the boundaries of what's possible.

Key Insights

Kai Lenny is redefining big wave surfing through innovation, discipline, and embracing new technologies.

Big wave surfing involves a deep connection with the ocean's power, requiring intense focus and risk management.

Technological advancements like hydrofoils and tow-in surfing are expanding the possibilities and accessibility of wave riding.

The psychological aspect of big wave surfing involves confronting fear and finding a balance between ego and submission.

The discovery and riding of new, massive waves like Nazaré highlight the ongoing exploration and potential in the sport.

Sharks are part of the ocean's ecosystem; a confident and respectful approach is key when encountering them.

DEFINING INNOVATION IN BIG WAVE SURFING

Eric Weinstein introduces Kai Lenny as an exemplar of innovation, highlighting marine sports as a bright spot in a world he perceives as stagnant. Lenny's approach to big wave surfing, characterized by pushing technological and athletic boundaries, is presented as a metaphor for engaging with challenging global forces. Lenny himself emphasizes that he feels "just getting started," suggesting immense room for growth and innovation in his field.

THE BECKONING CALL OF MONSTER WAVES

Kai Lenny shares his origin story, growing up near Jaws (Peahi),Maui, a legendary big wave spot. He describes the wave's immense power and beauty, comparing it to Mount Everest in its allure. Lenny's early heroes were the 'strap crew,' pioneers of tow-in surfing, who tackled waves previously thought unrideable. This upbringing instilled a deep respect and ambition for mastering such formidable ocean forces.

TECHNOLOGY AS A CATALYST FOR EXPLORATION

The conversation delves into how technology has revolutionized big wave surfing. Tow-in surfing eliminated the need for paddling into massive waves, allowing surfers to access and ride them at higher speeds. The development of hydrofoils has further expanded possibilities, enabling gliding over water and riding smaller waves more effectively, and even facilitating long-distance ocean crossings. Safety equipment, like inflatable vests, also allows surfers to focus more on performance.

THE PSYCHOLOGY OF CONFRONTING THE IMPOSSIBLE

Lenny describes big wave surfing as a profound psychological experience, akin to a spiritual practice or religion. He likens riding a massive wave to looking into a mirror, revealing one's true self in a high-stakes, life-or-death situation. This confrontation with fear and mortality can lead to a sense of transcendence and a feeling of being intensely alive, although it can also make everyday life seem less stimulating.

EXPLORING NEW FRONTIERS: TEAHUPO'O AND SHIPSTERN'S BLUFF

The discussion highlights specific iconic waves that represent different aspects of surfing's challenge. Teahupo'o in Tahiti, known for its heavy, folding nature and the unique experience of surfing below sea level, is discussed for its perfect yet dangerous beauty. Shipstern's Bluff in Tasmania is presented as a contrast, a more 'gnarly' wave with complex 'waves within waves,' offering opportunities for radical maneuvers and jumps.

THE UNCHARTED WATERS OF NAZARÉ AND BEYOND

The conversation turns to Nazaré, Portugal, discovered as a premier big wave spot relatively recently. Its immense size is attributed to a unique underwater canyon that focuses swells, creating exceptionally large and consistent waves. Lenny describes the sheer scale and power of Nazaré, likening the experience to entering a biblical landscape and emphasizing the feeling of human insignificance in the face of such natural might.

SURFING AS A METAPHOR FOR LIFE AND PERSONAL GROWTH

Lenny views big wave surfing as a constant learning process, involving managing risk, accepting fear, and embracing discomfort to foster personal growth. He talks about the necessity of having both an ego to match the power of the waves and the humility to submit to them. The pursuit of innovation reflects a desire to constantly push personal limits and discover new potentials for human capability.

THE ECOSYSTEM OF THE OCEAN AND HUMAN INTERACTION

The conversation touches upon encountering marine life, particularly sharks, and the importance of projecting confidence and respect. Lenny shares his perspective on sharks as 'landlords' of their domain. He also discusses the complex relationship between humans and nature, using the example of Reunion Island to illustrate how altering ecological balances can lead to unforeseen consequences, highlighting the need for careful consideration of human impact.

THE FUTURE OF WAVE RIDING AND UNTAPPED POTENTIAL

Looking ahead, Lenny expresses a belief that there are still undiscovered big waves worldwide and vast potential for innovation in surfing. He emphasizes the role of continuous progression, inspired by legends and pushing boundaries. The idea of a 'relay race' for progression, where current pioneers inspire and hand off the torch to the next generation, underscores the sport's dynamic and evolving nature.

Mentioned in This Episode

●Products

●Software & Apps

●Tools

●Organizations

●Books

●Concepts

●People Referenced

Common Questions

Kai Lenny is known for expanding the vocabulary of big wave surfing by not just riding massive waves but actively 'playing' with them, performing tricks, and pushing the limits of performance previously thought impossible. He emphasizes constant progression, even after achieving world-renowned feats.

Topics

Big Wave Surfing Kai Lenny Surfing Technology Hydrofoil Jaws Peahi Nazare Teahupo'o Flow State Surf Forecast Oceanography Shark Encounters Women In Surfing Action Sports

Mentioned in this video

People

Gerry Lopez

Described as the 'Yoda of surfing,' he showed Laird Hamilton the Jaws wave in the early 90s.

Kai Lenny

Professional big wave surfer and innovator, known for expanding the vocabulary of surfing and pushing limits in technological and athletic dimensions.

Titus Kinimaka

A big wave legend from Kauai, Hawaii, noted for his quote about Laird Hamilton having the ability to slow himself down when everyone else wants to run like hell.

Paige Alms

One of the top female big wave surfers, instrumental in inspiring the next generation.

Maya Gabeira

A prominent female big wave surfer known for her rides at Nazare, inspiring future generations.

Keala Kennelly

A pioneering female big wave surfer, the first woman invited to the Eddie Aikau Invitational, inspiring the next generation of women in the sport.

Dave Kalama

A member of the 'Strapped Crew' who pioneered tow-in surfing at Jaws alongside Laird Hamilton.

Nathan Florence

A friend and fellow surfer with whom Kai Lenny shared a barrel ride at Jaws, highlighting the camaraderie in extreme big wave surfing.

Laird Hamilton

A pioneer of big wave surfing, part of the 'Strapped Crew,' credited with inventing tow-in surfing and riding some of the biggest waves in the world.

Bianca Valenti

One of the top female big wave surfers, important figure in the progression of women's big wave surfing.

Concepts

Mavericks

A famous big wave surf break in Half Moon Bay, California.

Saint Helena

One of three remote Atlantic islands Eric Weinstein is obsessed with, noted as a gorgeous, isolated outpost of civilization that recently got flights.

Tristan da Cunha

One of three remote Atlantic islands Eric Weinstein is obsessed with, claimed to be the most remote island in the world, with a small settlement.

Jaws (Peahi)

A legendary big wave surf break in Maui, Hawaii, known as the 'Mount Everest of big waves.' Its Hawaiian name 'Peahi' means 'the beacon' or 'to be called.'

Teahupo'o

A unique and dangerous wave in Tahiti that breaks in shallow water, displacing the entire ocean forward without a 'back' to the wave, leading locals to call it 'broken skulls'.

Shipsterns Bluff

A heavy, cold-water wave in Tasmania known for its 'steps' or miniature waves within its face, creating an extremely raw and challenging surfing experience.

Ascension Island

One of three remote Atlantic islands Eric Weinstein is obsessed with, questioned for its potential surf importance.

Reunion Island

An island off Africa that used to be a surf spot but became problematic due to bull shark attacks after being designated a nature reserve.

Books

Kung Fu Panda

The movie is referenced for a profound quote: 'One often meets one's destiny on the road one takes to avoid it.'

Tools & Products

Air Chair

An earlier version of a hydrofoil where riders would sit down and be towed behind a water-ski boat.

Hydrofoil

An underwater wing attached to a board that allows surfers to glide above the water, creating an illusion of flight. Pioneered for big waves and later adapted by Kai Lenny for smaller waves and channel crossings.

Software & Apps

Kelly Slater's Surf Ranch

An engineered wave pool designed by Kelly Slater, offering a perfectly consistent wave for training and perfecting tricks, contrasted with the unpredictability of ocean waves.

Products

CO2 inflation vest

A safety device similar to an airplane life vest, with a CO2 canister and an airbag in a wetsuit, designed to help big wave surfers surface after being held underwater.